P B K | Pink Brutus Knits
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Pink Brutus Knits Blog

The new blog series...

Today, I posted the introduction for a new series dedicated to knitters who are interested in breaking into design.  You can find the blog HERE. I think this is going to be a fun project for me, but I also want to know what questions you have.

Are there specific things that have come up when you've tried your hand at design work?  Do you have general questions on how to get started? Are you afraid of all the math? I slept through algebra in high school, so if I could figure it out, I have the utmost faith that you can too...  Let me know what questions you need answered and I'll do my best to make it happen.  

To this new adventure!

x

Them POCKETS!

Every so often, I go through the writing, knitting, sample knitting, editing process which involves a slew of people, and no questions arise until the pattern is prints.  Then -BAM- one person says, what the heck?  and the emails come rolling in one after the other as if the universal consciousness is completely at odds with my brain.  What I (and the sample knitters and editors) thought would be that one question was the finishing of the Nineveh Cardigan.  The technique I used was a slip stitch crochet seam to close the sleeves from the cuff to the shoulder and a contrasting color yarn really accentuates that line.  Knit Picks even did a little tutorial on the finishing!

And maybe without the tutorial, I would be getting a slew of questions about the finishing, but the email I get time and time (and time and time) again is about the pockets - and these are just the folks that take the time to email!  What about all the other knitters in the world that just end up frogging it and moving along to the next cardigan in their queue?

Now, I thought the pockets were pretty simple when I wrote the pattern and the sample knitter had no questions whatsoever, but here we are.  I think the thing that trips folks up when they're knitting is that they don't go into it knowing the master plan.  Knitting is time consuming, costly, and about as frustrating as it gets when something doesn't make sense.  I know that before I really got knee deep in design, I felt exactly like these knitters and would be pretty uneasy about taking the leap into some weird ass pocket situation.

I've already walked dozens down my line of thought, but I think providing a little step-by-step is worth it.  First off, the construction in theory is a snap, but because we're working from the bottom up, we need to cast on for the entire length of the bottom of the pocket first, then decrease so that the inside pocket is a triangular shape that merges into the body of the cardigan seamlessly.  In the pattern, I recommended the use of double pointed needles for the pocket stitches (you will need 5 DPNs if you go this route; two to hold each of the pocket stitches, half the count on each needle & a needle to actually knit with) though you could certainly use circular needles here also.  In fact, when I was working the pattern out, I used long circs and it went very smoothly.  

The reason we're even considering this fussiness is because the first few rows of the pockets are going to be very tight and hard to manage.  Have you ever joined sleeves on a bottom up sweater and wanted to strangle someone every time you neared the underarms for the first inch or so after the join?  Me too.  That's sort of what we're dealing with for the first inch of the pockets.  After that inch though, there's no reason you can't ditch the extra needles and transfer the stitches back onto the working needles.

SO, this is what's happening after the stitches are cast on and marked for decreases: on the next WS row, when you reach the cast on stitches, transfer them to your preferred spare needles.  If using DPNs, they will be split evenly and you will use a third needle to knit, if using long circs, you will simply knit, slipping the markers.  Since we're dealing with garter stitch, we're going on this way until it's time for the decreases, and by this point it should be safe to transfer the stitches back onto the working needles.

I sure hope this helps those who are just kind of staring at the pattern blankly or crying over a strip of garter stitch full of DPNs with no idea how to proceed.

X

Cuff to Cuff and customization

Back in January of 2014 the Cuff to Cuff socks were born in the late afternoon on a sunny, biting cold day that made getting out of bed nearly impossible.  The only room in the house with a TV was our bedroom so we had some epic family cuddle sessions while watching movie marathons like... all the Jurassic Park movies in order... and bed is where I did my best thinking.

I hate knitting two of anything and socks are no exception.  I talked a bit about it when I first shared the socks, but that was many, many moons ago.  My problem is the casting on of the second sock.  I just feel blocked and then give up; it suddenly feels like a chore rather than an adventure.  SO, I thought, why not just keep this baby going?  Just keep on knitting and never have to cast on a second time?

The first pair - pictured above on the left - knit up quickly and I documented the process of separating the pair for others who might try this method, but also as a guide for myself - like, hey!  don't forget how you did this!  As soon as the toes were grafted, I cast on a second pair in a slightly heavier yarn (pictured on the right).  Hubs called them swap socks for the obvious color swap that developed.  I still wear those babies as soon as cold weather sets in.  Both pairs were worked in Stockinette with no frills - just a little ribbed cuff.

When I was working on Family-Friendly Knits, I included Cuff to Cuff in sizes ranging from kid's to men's and with a tidy little panel of textured stitches that would read correctly worked from cuff down and toe up.  The Cuff to Cuffs came to be right around that same time that the book, Up, Down, All Around  Stitch Dictionary by Wendy Bernard was released.  I always thought that stitch dictionary was the perfect tool for customizing the the stitch panel on the socks.  Of course, I still haven't gotten my hands on a copy, but when I do... I'm resurrecting the Cuff to Cuff!

Shawls, and in this case, arrows.

There is a specific beauty in the designing of shawls.  I don't consider myself a shawl designer though I've produced a fair share of them, but when ever I'm feeling blocked I can pull out a notebook, yarn, needles, and cast on a tiny thing that will grow, and grow endless stitches and shapes.  That beginning is therapeutic.  On the flip side, I've cast on many shawls for this reason, gotten to about 200 stitches on the needles and put it down, never allowing it to see the light of day again.  Like so many things in life, it's in the doing and not the finishing - the process and not the product - that calls me.  Perhaps the destroyer me.

The arrow shawls came from the other me - the builder that wants to break across the finish line with feet pounding and chest guzzling air.  The first arrow I released was the Quills Arrow Shawl - somehow released in February 2014 (!) I had fallen into Lisa Mutch's good graces and she contacted me with an offer of yarn support.  I needed to make a shawl that was special with that precious, gifted yarn and it was sitting at the giant reclaimed wood table that stretches half the length of my dad's small abode on his ranch in Colorado that the feather stitch was born.

My arrows start at the wide end.  This way I know that as I work, the tide will subside and before I know it, the stitches will be disappearing from my needles at an alarming rate.  I need that sort of encouragement from time to time.  Quills is still one of my favorite shawls to snuggle up in because 1) it's a beast 2) it's cozy as hell 3) the yarn is butter soft.

When I started working on my first book, I wanted to expand the audience that would see the arrow shawl concept and the simple Dart Shawl came to be.  This giant golden beauty was knit in Madeline Tosh Vintage and is (again) a shawl I still use constantly.  It's thick and heavy - perfect for wrapping up in during Autumn.

Recently, I've been seeing the arrow-shaped shawls pop up everywhere and I can't say I'm mad about it!  When I released Quills, just about every email I received was the same question: how do you wear this thing?  How things have changed!  I'm glad the arrow has found it's time in the sun.  I have recently cast on for another arrow shawl design - this time from the point - and it should be no surprise if you've gotten this far to hear that I'm already loosing interest.

Owinja and other gansey design tales

First off, let's just take a moment to appreciate a world in which gansey sweaters exist.  I love 'em.  Love 'em love 'em love 'em.  I honestly think I could pull off a gansey design to fit any request though, that would be wildly boring and so I reign it in.  Bailiwick, from Interweave Knits Spring 2014 was not only my first gansey (the one that started it all!), it was also my first design to ever be published by a print magazine (again, the one that started it all!). Bailiwick was  all about detail, modern aesthetic, and interesting construction. Worthington, from Interweave Knits Winter 2016 was really focused on paying homage to traditional fisherman's guernsey sweaters, knit in a solid, fine wool with a wide, ribbed hemline and underarm gussets.  The construction for Worthington is also very much as traditional as it gets.

Owinja is sort of a mix between the more modern aesthetic and the traditional jumper.  It has those modern drop shoulders that are really, truly, unequivocally the star, with traditional underarm gussets and stitches that aren't too fussy.  It's named for the stitch pattern that makes up the majority of the yoke which was inspired by Owinja Star Quilts.  It should probably also be noted that the knitting of this sweater was a zip; fast and engaging without being challenging (there's a big old gap of difference there).

Once again, I loved working with the team at Berroco - and their new yarn, Berroco Ultra Wool, is solid.  It has a great feel, banging stitch definition, and the colors range is exceptional.

Head on over to see the full collection of Berroco Portfolio Vol. 4 & download Owinja for yourself - just make sure to share your progress on social media #owinjapullover so I can follow along!

 

Easy no wrap short rows

So, I've used these short rows for years.  In fact, I'm pretty sure I stumbled upon them when I was researching techniques for Family-Friendly Knits and yet, the exact technique doesn't seem to exist on this here internet.  It is possible I borrowed techniques from other methods and poured them together to create this - I just honestly don't know.  What I do know is that I use this method every time I design short rows and since there doesn't seem to be a tutorial anywhere (a little tid-bit I found out when a sample knitter had some questions and asked if I had a link to a tutorial.  Oh yes, sure, I have a link... let me just google that and.... SIGH) ... so, ta-da!

First things first, I'm going to show how the stitches are executed over Stockinette st for both RS and WS rows.  When I write the instructions into a pattern, they read something like this example: 
"Short row 1: K6, turn, Sl1 P-wise, P11, turn. 
Short row 2: Sl1 P-wise, knit to one stitch before gap, close gap (See Special Instructions), K6, turn. 
Short row 3: Sl1 P-wise, purl to one stitch before gap, close gap, P6, turn. 
Rep Short rows 2 and 3 two more times.
Next row: Sl1 P-wise, knit to end of rnd.
Knit 1 rnd closing gaps as you come to them. "

And then of course, there are the "Special Instructions" that read something like this:

Closing Short Row Gaps

RS facing: Work to stitch before gap on left needle.  The slipped stitch is the next stitch on the left needle.  Pick up the stitch around the slipped stitch with right needle and transfer onto left needle, then knit the two stitches together.

WS facing: Work to stitch before gap on left needle.  The slipped stitch is the next stitch on the left needle.  Pick up the stitch around slipped stitch with the right needle and transfer onto left needle, then knit the two stitches together TBL.

And now to the good stuff.

 I've knit to where I'm ready to turn the work.

I've knit to where I'm ready to turn the work.

 After turning, I've slipped the first stitch p-wise with the yarn to the front.

After turning, I've slipped the first stitch p-wise with the yarn to the front.

 I've purled to where my next turn is going to be placed

I've purled to where my next turn is going to be placed

 After turning, I've slipped the first stitch p-wise with the yarn to the back.

After turning, I've slipped the first stitch p-wise with the yarn to the back.

 I'm now ready to close the gap on a RS facing row.  I've knit to one stitch before the gap.

I'm now ready to close the gap on a RS facing row.  I've knit to one stitch before the gap.

 Here is that slipped stitch - the arrow points to the stitch I'm picking up and placing on the needle.

Here is that slipped stitch - the arrow points to the stitch I'm picking up and placing on the needle.

 Now I've transferred that stitch onto the left needle.

Now I've transferred that stitch onto the left needle.

 Finally, I'm knitting the slipped stitch together with the picked up stitch on the left needle.

Finally, I'm knitting the slipped stitch together with the picked up stitch on the left needle.

 Moving on to the WS rows, here I've purled to one stitch before the gap.

Moving on to the WS rows, here I've purled to one stitch before the gap.

 Again, we see thatstitch from the previous WS row positioned around the slipped stitch on the needle.

Again, we see thatstitch from the previous WS row positioned around the slipped stitch on the needle.

 I've transfered the picked up stitch onto the left needle.

I've transfered the picked up stitch onto the left needle.

 And of course, I can now purl the slipped stitch together with the picked up stitch on the needle through the back.

And of course, I can now purl the slipped stitch together with the picked up stitch on the needle through the back.

 The finished short rows with the RS of the fabric facing.  Look Ma, no gaps!

The finished short rows with the RS of the fabric facing.  Look Ma, no gaps!

As you can see, once you know what you're looking for, it's a breeze to work up - and as I mentioned previously, it's the only short row method I've used in my designs for years.  After blocking, the stitches lay out even more evenly creating a fabric with almost no sign of short row shaping at all. 

I hope this has been informative, and if you know if I made this up or if it actually exists elsewhere, please let me know!  Ever since I started looking for it this morning, it's been driving me crazy.

X

Breaking news

I have a lot of knitting needles.

Like, 3 sets of interchangeable points, sort of 2 sets of double points in a mismatched way, a set of mini double points, and just about any size circular and straight needle you could imagine.  And so, today when I broke my size US4 wooden interchangeable points while working on a new design, I figured I could just grab a set of my metal points and go about my day.  I grabbed the last thing I was certain I had used my US4 needles to fiddle with and ... those are US5.  What about this one?  US6.  And the great needle search commenced.

I would like to say that at no point during this search did I have any sort of melt down.  I would like to say that I didn't cry because that would be ridiculous.  I would like to say I didn't get pissed at my husband, pissed at my laundry, pissed at my *always* dirty floors... but I did.  I did all of those things.  I also cleaned, organized, sorted, wound, stacked, stashed, and cleared out every box, bag, basket, and bin I have any knitting related items in.  I found every single missing set of interchangeable points except my US4.

On Spring

The thing is, as far as seasons go, spring is the sweet and sour season.  I do a bit of "spring cleaning" but really, autumn seems like a more appropriate time for those sorts of things - the great purging before holidays and searing cold set in, making it emotionally impossible to do things like carry boxes to the car for donation or clear out cobwebs and dust because, for heaven's sake, they might be providing insulation at that point!  And I do like a tidy house.  Which, I would like to add, is damn near impossible around here.  Which again, brings me to spring and the fact that it's been raining daily for what seems like a month (though it's probably more like a week? Two?  Has it been a month!?  Good lord!).  Which means every living creature that can, will track in as much dirt, mud, and rainwater as physically possible.  Fortunately, we have tile and wood throughout the house save the lowest level which currently houses glorified spill collection material (also known as carpet).

However, the cloudy skies seems less oppressive in spring than they do in Autumn - a real benefit to the psyche.  Clouds above but dandelions and lilacs and tulips and daffodils below nestled in clumps against nearly neon green grass, freshly revived and fully alive.  And a stray turkey.  

(Wait, what?)

After I dropped the kids off at school this morning, I came into the neighborhood through the small back street that probably has a name, but isn't the main entrance so I couldn't tell you much more about it......... but I saw this giant bird standing in a yard and I stopped because we like to look out for giant birds that might slaughter our chickens, right?  And then I realized it was a turkey.  A lady turkey and she was all by herself just sort of standing there, blinking.  She took a few steps toward the van and stopped, then slowly rounded the front to the driver's side and just stood there.  Blink.  Looking right at me.  I rolled down the window and was like, "Hey turkey, what-cha doin' out here all by yourself?"  She made a bubbly little lady turkey sound and took a few more steps - now planted squarely in the middle of the road and ... blink...  I shooed her off the road and called my mom because her nearby friend raises turkey folk and maybe she just, you know, escaped.

Later, on my way to get spring things like mulch and tree stakes, I saw the lady turkey just standing in someone's yard like a lawn ornament... but then, on my way home, there she was in someone's driveway, perched on top of their pickup truck.  Weird ass lady turkey.  

> As I was typing this, I got a text.  A video from the husband?  What could it be?  Him in his truck dropping off a load and... what's that?  A turkey!  Ha! <

Speaking of poultry, Blind Melon is probably my favorite girl right now.  She started laying at about 7 months old and gifts us perfectly peach little pee-wee sized eggs nearly 5 days a week.  And she's the lady Johnny Cash of chickens.  Ruby (our Welsummer) is Mae's favorite by a mile.  She came into my bedroom yesterday with Ruby under one arm and Blind Melon under the other declaring, "I have chickens!"  Yup, I see that.  Sigh.  But normally, it's just Ruby that she totes around the house.  We integrated our 2 month old babes to the flock a few weeks ago and all is harmonious in the hen house even though we were off to a rough start with the orpingtons who weren't keen on new house mates.... and we have two little week-olds to cuddle.  We source our chicks locally and different breeds are only available at certain times so we've been forced into staggering out the flock quite a bit.  May is our last round of chicks and we're done!  At that point we'll have Welsummer, Silkie, Orpington, EE, OE, Wyandotte, Black Copper Marans, Rhode Island Red, and Ameraucana hens.  The steady flow of fluffin-butted chicken nuggets is totally worth it.

We're also rounding out our trees and other various fruit-bearing plants, adding grapes, elderberry, blueberry, and apricot to the apple, raspberry, and plum we already had started in the fall.  I would still like to get some pear mixed in there though... ya? And I bought rose bushes.  White roses for my papa who I lost too many years ago to even think about.  I'm really gonna try to keep them alive and well.  I feel like I'm off to a good start though since they already have a lot of new growth (high five, me!)... oh, and it's been so great planting all this stuff in the rain.  But, it's raining all - the - freaking - time - so, those daily waterings have been a breeze! (she said sarcastically).

But in all honesty, I love that I don't have to keep watering all these things, that we have the sweetest little Silkie eggs to dye for easter, and that this year, our little chunk of earth will be another step closer to what we used to sit around and sort of try not to dream about too hard because it seems borderline impossible at the time.  I used to think I wanted it all - the sheep and the horses and the chickens and the trees and the gardens - but as my health continues on in the steady progression of Lupus, I'm really settling into what is really manageable.  Asking myself, what is my truth?  Truth. About as woven into the inner workings of my life right now as that lady turkey.  It just keeps rising up and saying, "Isn't it nice here?  Settle in and have a cup of tea."  Hubs is taking me in for another biopsy tomorrow and I am pretty much just over the whole thing.  Let it be Stage 1 and let it be a hysterectomy so that I can check it off my list of concerns.  We have uterine and cervical cancer in the blood line and I'd just as well say goodbye to it.

And believe it or not, I am actually working - the knitting flow has been steady enough and I'm in that between projects place with edits on one side and proposals on the other.  It's my least favorite place in the cycle.  And you know, being a designer isn't like being a knitter.  I can't just post knitting pics every day because the things I'm knitting?  They're secret and bound by contracts.  That's probably the only real crapy thing about what I do.  My editor is asking about a second book, too.  The kids screamed NO and my husband just sort of blinked at me like the lady turkey.  The first book was stressful, and a ton of work, and I was pretty much the worst version of myself afterward.  Have I learned enough and grown enough to jump back into those dark waters?  Maybe.  Not now but keep churning?  I have sketches and swatches and concepts galore.  I'll let them marinate a while longer.  I told her I needed to have a very crisp and tidy direction for not just the book but for each piece and that's the truth.  Until every single design has been fully visualized, I will wait.  There's no race.  There's no one running up at my heels. 

On 2016

My final pattern released in 2016 was the Arrowhead Stole (a contribution and cover girl for Interweave Press, F+W Media collection, Garter Stitch Revival).

It's a nice pattern to close the year with... simple and lovely... a piece that reminds me of summer's eventual return... a true warm weather stole knit in a crunchy, cool yarn.  In fact, it's a taste of my recent transformation as a designer.  I'm getting down to the bare bones of where I want to go with knitwear, how I want to approach design, and what feels appropriate for seasonal pieces.  Things I once would have thought nothing of years past (like Icelandic wool sweaters for spring) utterly repel me.  However, like any other period of growth/change, I become rigid in a new way of thinking and then soften again with newfound knowledge. But this is all looking ahead rather than back - back into 2016 - *the year of "persevere" when in reality, it ended up being the year of "hold-on-for-dear-life" 

Looking back, 3 things stand out - first, the year went by so quickly, too quickly, months and seasons tumbled over each other at such a rapid pace I could hardly keep up.  Second, from start to finish, people were divided.  Race issues, gender issues, political issues... every time I turned around.  It forced me off social media for the most part and aided in my already steady retreat inward.  Lastly, 2016 was a big year of change for our family.  Mae's Trichotillomania spiked, causing strife and periods of melancholy.  Alizah chipped away at her chrysalis to expose a glimpse at the gorgeous creature forming within (that girl is a force).  And we made huge strides toward our goals on the homefront, adding ducks, chickens, and fruit trees to our little plot of earth, along with the start of our gardens. 

In the end though, I knew '16 would be a tough one for this monkey girl (navigating a monkey year) and so I avoided conflict, stayed steady, and wore a lucky amulet every day.  Hubs, on the other hand, was destined for good fortune.  We couldn't see the path, but as always, time cleared the way for us and the path was revealed.  I was grateful for his promotions and ability to leap over adversity like a gazelle... it gave our family stability and balance.

There seems to be a general "good riddance" attitude toward 2016.  Even though I felt mostly under water for the past 365 days, I don't feel that beaming optimism for the new year.  I feel older.  I feel rooted.  I feel rushed.  I am, however, looking forward to breaking the spell of introversion that I sank deeply into.  I also look forward to getting my feet out of the mud and getting back into design with a new, fresh perspective.  Mostly, I look forward to making it to the other side with my family intact and my little homestead growing.  **At this point, I feel like anyone who really knows me, knows about my New Year's Mantras... this post still resonates with me as I was saying farewell to 2014 - here is a small excerpt:  

 I don't make resolutions, as some of you already know, but I do set a mantra for myself.  2014 was simply "stay steady" and 2013's "be brave". I haven't quite settled on one for 2015 yet, but the past two years have served me well and have been years of personal and professional growth, and unexpected adventures.  Truly, I want to continue on in this way - staying steady, being brave, and pushing those two tasks further than I ever thought possible... and I wish that for all of you, too.  #pushitfurther

But, I was on a high when 2014 closed.  2016 hardened me.  And since I've been setting a word, phrase, or general idea to lean on for years, out of necessity and creation, I notice that this year, the not-even-day-old-year of 2017, social media is all a buzz with everyone's "word for the year" and I'm realizing quickly that the mantra I set for myself weeks ago is going to be far more difficult for me to lean into than I could have imagined.

2017.  Open, Flex.

And yet, I'm leaning back into the feeling I felt most of 2016 (hide and lock doors!).  I wish I could talk to 2014/2015 Courtney.  I bet she would have excellent advice for me right now.

Horus Shawl {guided knitting pattern}

I've mentioned in the past that I approach knit design in two, but really three ways.  I say three because sometimes I design for a purpose - like a submission - and I'm guided by editors and mood boards rather than my own vision.  It's actually really inspiring to design in this way because it pushes me to think beyond my own parameters... but that's another post altogether!

My two main approaches are to design something I want to knit / design something I want to wear.  One almost outweighs the other and in the case of Horus, this was something I designed to wear, but keeping the stitches simple and manageable was important for me here.  Being bound to my notes or computer drives me crazy! I happily knit, going this way and that, starting sections and re-starting sections, until I managed to meander my way to the last stitch.  When I sat down and began writing the instructions, I realized very quickly that I just didn't feel like it!  I had knit Horus intuitively with an easy flow, but all of that easiness was thrown out the window when it came to putting it on paper.  I had written some knitting recipes a long, long time ago and offered them as free patterns... and I thought it was time to bring that loose recipe style back.  However, I can't really just throw out some basic instructions and expect the majority to wing it, so I'm calling this a guided tour.

If you're not feeling super confident about working in pattern for the Right and Left sides after the fully written center, you can simply work the body in St st and the border in Garter st!  Take on what you feel comfortable with and simplify the stitches how ever you'd like.

Ready?


HORUS SHAWL

Notes Worked from the top down for center section, then working each side separately using short rows to create wings.  Ears of Grass Lace will not repeat fully between each point of moving markers, simply continue in pattern.

Yarn DK (#3 Light); Shown: Rowan, Felted Tweed (50% Merino Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose; 191 yds/50g): Color 157 Camel about 7-8 balls. - However, yarn isn't particularly important for this pattern.  A lighter weight will produce a smaller shawl and a heavier weight will produce a larger shawl.

Needles US6 (4mm) 21" cir for working a large number of sts; Gauge 5.5 sts & 7.5 rows = 1" St st worked flat.

Notions Waste yarn or spare needle, removable marker, yarn needle.

Stitches

Ears of Grass Lace (worked over 15 sts)

Rows 1, 3 (WS): Purl

Row2 (RS): *Ssk, k4, yo, k3, yo, k4, k2tog; rep from *

Row 4: *Ssk, k5, yo, k1, yo, k5, k2tog; rep from *

Rows 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19: *P7, k1, p7; rep from *

Row 6: *Ssk, k3, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k3, k2tog; rep from *

Row 8: *Ssk, k4, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k4, k2tog; rep from *

Row 10: *Ssk, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, k2tog; rep from *

Row 12: *Ssk, k3, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k3, k2tog; rep from *

Row 14: *Ssk, k1, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k1, k2tog; rep from *

Row 16: *Ssk, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, k2tog; rep from *

Row 18: *Ssk, yo, k5, p1, k5, yo, k2tog; rep from *

Row 20: *Ssk, k1, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k1, k2tog; rep from *

Rep Rows 1-20

Garter Ladder Lace

Row 1 (RS): *Ssk, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, k2tog; rep from *

Row 2: *K2, knit into the first yo, purl into the second yo, knit 2; rep from *

Rep Rows 1 & 2

PATTERN

CO 5 sts.  KNit even 12 rows, rotate work clockwise, pick up and knit 5 sts along garter edge between bumps, rotate work clockwise, pick up and knit 5 sts along CO edge - 15 sts.  Alternatively, use a provisional CO and knit last 5 sts from CO edge.

Row 1 (WS) K5, sl1pwise wyf, k1, sl1pwise wyf (this is the center stitch - mark with a removable marker), k1, sl1pwise wyf, k5.

Row 2 (RS) K6, yo, knit to center st, yo, k1, yo, knit to last 6 sts, yo, k6 - 4 sts inc'd.

Row 3: K5, sl1pwise wyf, knit to center st, sl1pwise wyf, knit to last 6 sts, sl1pwise wyf, k5.

Rep Rows 2 & 3, 6 more times - 43 sts.

Begin Ears of Grass Lace (EGL)

Row 1 (RS) K6, yo, pm, work EGL patt (starting on Row 2 of patt - See Stitches) working 1 repeat, pm, yo, k1, yo, pm, work EGL patt (Row 2) working 1 repeat, pm, yo, k6 - 4 sts inc'd.

Row 2 (WS) K5, sl1pwise wyf, knit to marker, slm, work in lace patt to marker, slm, knit to center st, sl1pise wyf, knit to marker, slm, work in EGL patt to marker, slm, knit to last 6 sts, sl1pwise wyf, k5.

Row 3: K6, yo, knit to marker, slm work in EGL patt to marker, slm, knit to center st, yo, k1, yo, knit to marker, slm, work in EGL patt to marker, slm, knit to last 6 sts, yo, k6 - 4 sts inc'd; 51 sts.

Rep Rows 2 & 3, 13 more times, then rep Row 2 once more removing markers as you come to them.  Rep Row 1 - 103 sts.

Rep last 31 rows, 3 more times (283 sts), then rep Row 2 once more as follows: work as established to center st, purl into f&b of center st, work as est to end - 1 st inc'd.

Separate for Right & Left sides

K6, yo, k136, place remaining sts onto spare needles or waste yarn, continue over Left side only. 

Left side

Short Row 1 (WS) Sl1pwise wyf, knit to last 9 sts, turn; (RS) Sl1pwise wyb, knit to end.

Short Row 2 (WS) Sl1pwise wyf, knit to 9 sts before gap, turn; (RS) Sl1pwise wyb, knit to end.

Rep Short Row 2, 12 more times.

Next row (WS) BO 15, knit to last 6 sts, sl1pwise wyf, k5 - 127 sts.

Next row: K6, yo, knit to end - 1 st inc'd.

Next row: K1, purl to last 6 sts, sl1pwise wyf, k5.

Begin Floating Wings short rows along live stitch edge using Chart A and continuing edge sts as est.  Each RS short row increases by 3 sts.

Now, as you can see, this chart is short and has a red box around a small section for the pattern repeat.  This is where I cut you loose a bit.  You will continue on in pattern while increasing along the edge sts with a yo, and knitting 2 sts from the live stitch edge.  I've written the chart out so that the first stitch is slipped each WS row, and the two sts worked from live stitch edge are worked in St st throughout.  You will work a total of 13 Floating Wings lines (6 +1 full repeat as charted), then work even 4 rows in St st, increasing as est and ending on a WS row.  Need some guidance working in pattern?  Some help below!

When working in pattern, you'll notice that the RS rows start the floating wing patt on the Left side.  In the far left image, I've marked the center st of the floating wing from the previous repeat.  The left purl bump will be 6 sts to the right (as illustrated in the center image).  After the left purl bump, k11, then p1, k1, p1(as illustrated in the right image) - this is the foundation of the next row of floating wing patt. 

Begin Garter Ladder Lace (GLL) - These are not going to be full repeats of the pattern since they are still short row sections.  Simply work in pattern each row, increasing 3 sts every RS row.

Row 1 (RS) K6, yo, work Row 1 GLL patt to end, k2 sts from live edge, turn.

Row 2 (WS) Sl1pwise wyf, work Row 2 GLL patt to last 5 sts, sl1pwise wyf, k5.

Rep Rows 1 & 2, 7 more times.

Next Row: *BO to double yo, chain 2; rep from * and BO to end.  Break yarn.

Right side

Rejoin yarn with RS facing, sl1pwise wyf, knit to last 6 sts, yo, k6 - 1 st inc'd.

Next Row (WS) K5, sl1pwise wyf, knit to end.

Short Row 1 (RS) Sl1pwise wyb, knit to last 9 sts, turn; (WS) Sl1pwise wyf, knit to end.

Short Row 2 (WS) Sl1pwise wyf, knit to 9 sts before gap, turn; (RS) Sl1pwise wyb, knit to end.

Rep Row 2, 12 more times.

Next Row (RS) BO 15, knit to last 6 sts, yo, k6 - 1 st inc'd.

Next Row (WS) K5, sl1pwise wyf, purl to last st, k1.

Next Row: Knit to last 6 sts, yo, sl1pwise wyb, k5 - 1 st inc'd.

Begin Floating Wings short rows along live stitch edge using Chart B and continuing edge sts as est.  Each RS short row increases by 3 sts.

 You will work a total of 13 Floating Wings lines (6 +1 full repeat as charted) then work even 4 rows in St st, increasing as est and ending on a RS row. 

This time, when working in pattern, you'll notice that the WS rows start the floating wing patt on the Reft side.  In the far left image, I've marked the center st of the floating wing from the WS row.  The left purl bump is 12 sts to the right of the end of this row (as illustrated in the image on the left), but I was working all of the 2 extra stitches from the live edge in St st, so there is no purl bump 11 sts to the left of the left purl bump.  The following WS row, I will add a purl bump (as illustrated in the center image).  Now, there is purl bump 11 sts to the left of the p1, k1, p1 (as illustrated in the right image). 

Begin Garter Ladder Lace (GLL) - These are not going to be full repeats of the pattern since they are still short row sections.  Simply work in pattern each row, increasing 3 sts every RS row.

Row 1 (RS) Work Row 1 GLL patt last 6 sts, yo, k6 - 1 st inc'd.

Row 2 (WS) K5, sl1pwise wyf, work Row 2 GLL patt to end.

Rep Rows 1 & 2, 7 more times.

Next Row: *BO to double yo, chain 2; rep from * and BO to end.  Break yarn.

Weave in all ends and block well.