Cabin Socks

Hello Friends!

Spring is finally here, and I decided that in the spirit of new, fresh, positive change, I’m posting a new FREE pattern that includes no-wrap short row heel shaping (and a link to a new little photo tutorial so that you can knit up some top notch heels or simply add another method to your repertoire). This pattern will be sent out in pattern form (a downloadable file) to all of my newsletter subscribers — I’ll be sending that newsletter out on Monday, April 8 so you have until then to subscribe!

If you think it’s weird that I’m sending out a sock pattern, then you know me well. I gripe about socks all the time and I have serious two-of-anything-dysfunction but I’ve had some major stressors in my life recently and knitting on a little sock seemed to soothe my troubled mind.

The pattern is super simple and features twisted rib - heels and toes are worked in stockinette st. I’ve included notes with loose with tips to size for your perfect fit (though exact numbers for standard sizes are included for if, say, you were knitting these as a gift)

Enjoy!


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Cabin Socks

Sizes: Child S, (Child L, Adult S, Adult L) to fit foot length measuring approx 6 (8, 10, 11)” from back of heel to end of toe.

Yarn: 1 hank of sock yarn; shown is Knit Picks Hawthorne Speckle (80% Superwash Fine Highland Wool, 20% Nyon; 357yd/100g hank); 27216 Jupiter.

Needles: 1 set US 4 (3.5mm) double points or needles for your preferred small cir knitting. Adjust needles as needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Markers (m), tapestry needle.

Gauge: 6 sts and 8 rnds/1”

Channel Island CO: Measure tail (about 1”/ stitch cast on) and fold in half. Near the tail of the folded length, create a slip knit with the doubled yarn and place onto needle.  Hold the short tail, *wrap double strand tail around left thumb counter-clockwise twice, bring working yarn over needle creating a yo, insert needle under the two wraps around the thumb, catch working yarn as you would with a long-tail cast-on, bring yarn through the two wraps, releasing them from the thumb, and pull snug against the needle; rep from * until reaching the desired number of stitches.

*For casting on an even number of sts, drop the slip st at the end of the first row.

Notes: To get a perfect fit for a custom sock, first measure the circumference of the ball of your foot (or the widest part), and multiply that measurement with the gauge per inch. For example, the Adult S size in this pattern assumes your foot measures 8” around at the widest point, so 8 inches x 6 stitches/inch = 48 stitches (this final stitch count needs to be an even number, so adjust as needed).

For the heel, you will split the stitches evenly working over half for the heel shaping. In our example, 48/2 = 24 sts for the heel. You may want to follow the short row shaping for the size closest to your actual measurement -or- simply work the short rows for the first wedge until you have about 6 or 8 sts left un-worked for the center of the heel before starting the second wedge.

For the foot, repeat your twisted rib segments until the piece measures about 2” shorter than your actual foot length before moving on to the toe.

I recommend following toe shaping instructions for the size closest to your actual measurement and grafting all remaining stitches together for the toe.

Short row Tutorials

No-Wrap Short Rows (closing gaps)

No-Wrap Short Row Heel

Cuff

Using Channel Island CO (or preferred stretchy cast-on method) CO 36 (48, 60, 64) sts, distribute evenly over DPNs or pm and join for rnds.

Rnd 1: * P1, k1; rep from * to end.

Rep Rnd 1 until cuff measures 1” from CO.

Leg

Rnds 1-3: * P1, k1tbl; rep from * to end.

Rnd 4: Knit.

Rep last 4 rnds four more times (or to desired length; socks pictured are 1/4 crew/anklet length).

Heel

Wedge 1

Short row 1 (RS): K9 (12, 15, 16), turn.

Short row 2 (WS): Sl1, p17 (23, 29, 31), turn.

Short row 3: Sl1, knit to 2 sts before gap, turn.

Short row 4: Sl1, purl to 2 sts before gap, turn.

Rep Short rows 3 and 4, 2 (3, 4, 5) more times, turn.

Wedge 2

Short row 1 (RS): Knit to 1 st before gap, close gap, turn.

Short row 2 (WS): Sl1, purl to 1 st before gap, close gap, turn.

Short row 3: Sl1, knit to 1 st before gap, close gap, knit to 1 st before next gap, close gap, turn.

Short row 4: Sl1, purl to 1 st before gap, close gap, purl to 1 st before next gap, close gap, turn.

Rep Short rows 3 and 4, 1 (3, 4, 5) more times, turn.

Next row (RS): Sl1, knit to end of rnd.

Foot

Work as foll, closing remaining gaps on first rnd:

Rnds 1-3: * P1, k1tbl; rep from * to end.

Rnd 4: Knit.

Rep last 4 rnds 11 (13, 15, 17) more times (or to desired length).

Toe

Dec rnd: K7 (10, 13, 14), k2tog, pm, ssk, k14 (20, 26, 28), k2tog, pm, ssk, knit to end—4 sts dec’d.

(From here on, Dec rnds are worked as foll: Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slm, ssk, knit to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, slm, ssk, knit to end.)

Next rnd: Knit.

Rep last 2 rnds 3 (5, 7, 8) more times—20 (24, 28, 28) sts.

Rep Dec rnd only 2 (3, 4, 4) times—12 sts.

Knit to marker and break yarn leaving tail for Kitchener St.

Graft toe closed.

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Tech Talk [No-Wrap Short Row Heel]

I’m not a big fan of sock knitting (or at least that’s been true historically). However, I recently wanted to knit on something small and rather mindless as - well, a therapeutic escape. This is how the Cabin Socks came into existence!! Find the No-Wrap Short Row Heel tutorial below — and if you need a refresher on my Easy No-Wrap Short Rows, you can find that tutorial HERE. I suggest working through that tutorial first before tackling the heel because I’ve written this tutorial assuming you have the basics down already.

I’m also teaching the No-Wrap Short Short Row technique at some upcoming STITCHES events, so head over to the EVENTS tab for more about that.


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After working your first set of No-Wrap Short Rows or Wedge 1, you’re ready to work Wedge 2, so you’ll knit to the first stitch before the gap on the RS of the work. As you can see, the slipped stitch is positioned around the first stitch on the left needle, ready to be picked up and knit together with the stitch on the needle. For full photo tutorial on how to close gaps, check out the Easy No-Wrap Short Rows tutorial.

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After turning, slipping the first stitch, and purling to the stitch before the next gap, you’ll close the gap as usual, turn and slip the first stitch which is now positioned directly above the previous turn. So far, all of this is done as you would for closing your short row gaps, but as you close a gap, turn, and slip the next stitch, you will have two slipped stitches rather than one positioned around your working stitch on the needle.

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Here, you’ve slipped the first st with RS facing and have knit to the stitch before the gap. Now, rather than having one slipped stitch positioned below the first stitch on the left needle, there are two - the lower stitch has already been picked up on the previous row (pictured on the left), so you want to pick up the upper stitch as pictured on the right. You will then knit those two stitches together as instructed to close gaps.

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WS is worked similarly. There are two slipped stitches positioned below the working st on the left needle- the lower stitch has already been picked up on the previous row (pictured on the left), so you want to pick up the upper stitch as pictured on the right. You will then purl those two stitches together tbl as instructed to close gaps.

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Ta-Da! As you can see (pictured on the left), there are no gaps and the turns are rather tidy and even. If you want to whip up the Cabin Socks that feature this shaping (pictured on the right), they will be available SOON!! Make sure to sign up for my newsletter to have the printable pattern sent straight to your inbox.

Registration is open!!

Hi friends!

I just wanted to stop in and remind you all that registration is open for STITCHES Midwest!! Make sure to get your tickets and sign up for classes sooner than later since space is limited. Find my class listings under the Events tab.

I can’t wait to meet you all in real life!